MiniatureWars.Com
A wargamer’s journal….
A wargamer’s journal….
Oct 12th
With major assistance from of Jean-Louis I now have the history of the regiment.
Many a year ago, in a kingdom by the sea, there lived a maiden whom the world would come to know. She was the very beautiful daughter of Duke Alonzo Café Bar y Casa de Tanning named Mirabel.
The Yellow Bird
The king’s heir apparent Don Pedro was still a bachelor (for very good reasons, as the future will tell) and all the Counts and Dukes of the kingdom sent their marriageable (and some less so) daughters to the Court. None had as cute a face as Mirabel, none had smaller feet (nothing more could be seen) and she always appeared in dresses of lemon yellow and sky blue. The competition for the Prince’s attentions was harsh, cruel, and remorseless: a very powerful rival family (on the instigation of the brother of the House Head, the cunning Cardinal Libro y Portfolio Negro) hired an infamous seducer, Don Juan Siempre Usar Viagra, to dishonor pure and naive Mirabel. She oh so imprudently gave him, as a token of chaste (still) but ardent love, a very special ring bearing the ruling House’s arms. This had been a gift from a previous king to her grand-mother after she gave the then queen judicious advice that ensured the perpetuation of the royal line. Then, as the engagement of Mirabel and the Caballero (the traditional title of the Heir Apparent) was nearing announcement, some suggested to the King that Mirabel should wear at the next Ball the ring symbolizing the especially close relationship between the two families….
But the conspirators, as did any people of noble birth, scorned their domestic staff to the point of no longer being aware of their presence. The mysterious network of gossip between chambermaids, scullery maids, linen maids, pages, hairdressers and cooks carried the news to the man-servants of the officers of the garrison. In actuality – besides the skeleton Inner Guard of the palace – it consisted of a single foot regiment. It turned out that some junior officers were from Mirabel’s father’s estates; they had known her from childhood and cherished her deeply (some loved her hopelessly). It’s said that four of them (actually three minor nobles holding the King’s commission and a young cadet) took the matter at heart and in hand, and slaughtered – in formal duels or otherwise – Don Juan and many other males of various ages and recovered the ‘One Ring’ just in time…. Thus Mirabel married the Caballero.
Mirabel the Great
To Mirabel the marriage was a great disappointment: the future king turned out to be far more interested (if not in clockworks and locks as his cousin) in collecting live spiders and snakes than in ‘honoring’ his young wife. He was too often seen in the company of bizarre-looking hairstylists and makeup artists propounding the newly fashionable “guyliner” techniques. Things worsened when the old King died under odd circumstances. As soon as he was crowned, Pedro the XIII became a totally paranoid, cruel and greedy ruler. Caligula would have been sainted before Pedro. The more unpopular he became, the more Mirabel was loved in all circles. She had kept a special affection for those in the foot regiment who had saved her before her marriage – all were now company commanders or higher. The Queen was often seen with the regiment, actually appearing at the regimental feasts, and at hunting parties, in the regimental uniform. In his madness, the king became obsessively jealous of Mirabel: not for any suspected infidelity, his spies (the very few that actually lived to report) had nothing to say except to report on her increasing popularity. So he hired an assassin, though he grumbled about his wages. But nothing escaped the ever-present eyes and ears of the palace servants. This time the whole regiment came to help ‘its’ Queen. It is rumored that Pedro tried to fly from the Palace’s roof in an attempt to flee from their wrath but met with scant success. As a reward for their service the regiment was granted the title ‘The Queen’s Own’ – a boon they asked for instead of being given ‘Guard’ status (they knew that a Guard soon degenerates, they just had crushed one).
![]() |
|
To honor the queen, the regimental uniform colors were changed to yellow and blue and became known officially on the Army’s rolls as La Bandera de la Reina. The template for this uniform "plate" was provided byDavid at Not By Appointment – a wonderful source for creating uniforms for ImagiNations. The company will be organized in the form of a standard line regiment from Charge by Young and Lawford, three line companies staffed with officers. To keep the companies straight, I have borrowed a tip from the Napoleonic Wars and color coded the pompons for each unit.
|
Oct 9th
Technically, in fine art terminology, what you’re doing is called glazing, but it can just as easily be considered a type of layering.
The chalkiness you’re talking about isn’t actually a result of the technique. It’s a quality of titanium white, the most frequently used white pigment in hobby or fine art paint. You can avoid this by making your own mixed hues of paint with zinc white instead of titanium white, or you can often subdue the chalky appearance by glazing/layering again on top of the white with a darker color. For best effect, I would recommend using a transparent pigment, such as Vallejo Model Color’s transparent series, Golden Acrylic’s transparent airbrush paints or an acrylic ink.
If you use the transparent airbrush paints or an acrylic ink, add about one part fluid matte acrylic medium or Lascaux matting agent to five parts of the paint/ink. This will help even out the extreme wicking action of the transparent airbrush paint or acrylic ink (caused by a high proportion of flow release in these particular products), making it easier to place where you want it, and it will also dull the shine that the transparent airbrush paint or acrylic ink tends to have.
Because the layer of darker color, even transparent, will subdue the highlighting just a bit, push your highlights a little more than you want them before you do the final transparent layer. One benefit of using these particular products is that you can paint over the transparent layer if you need/want to do so.
I hope that helps! Let me know if my brief description isn’t clear or raises more questions than it answers.
Judi Northwood
(Judi is an art instructor and can be reached at art at equusalba dot
com with questions or inquiries. She teaches at Gen Con, Origins and
Historicon and some local events. Look for her classes on the programs
and sign up!)
Oct 9th
Most of the time, you should just clean with a fine-arts brand brush cleaner after every painting session. If you use a soap-type cleaner, wet the brush with warm water, and work it on the surface of the soap pat/bar (or drag through a liquid soap like Plaid’s Brush Plus or Houston Art’s Pink Soap). Always move the brush in one direction, never side-to-side and never pushing against the point of the brush. Depending on the soap, that should generate some lather, but at least work the soap fully into the body of the brush. Leave that on for a minute or so with the brush lying flat, then gently flex the hair just above the ferrule to loosen any paint that dried way up high in the hair and finish the cleaning by rinsing well in warm water, ideally swirling or swishing the brush in a cup of warm water. ALWAYS leaving the brush flat or point down to dry. If you use Master’s brush soap, my personal favorite, but applicable in theory to any fatted or glycerine bar soap, put a little more on after cleaning, then twirl the brush slowly and gently against the back of your hand to repoint the hair. The fatted soap will dry in the hair, acting as a moisturizer and sizing.
A lot of people use Winsor & Newton’s brush cleaner, but if you consider it, be warned that it will take the paint off the handles if you’re not VERY careful, and once on the handles, it will sometimes cause the wood to crack. This is one that you NEVER want to leave the brush point-up even while working with it, or the solvents in the brush cleaner can dissolve the glue inside the ferrule as well as dissolve the paint from the handle. It’s excellent, though, for quickly dissolving caked-on dried paint. It doesn’t point the brush quite as well as Master’s, but there are brands of brush conditioner out there that contain panthenol and starches to do the pointing or you can finish with repointing with a fatted or glycerine soap. If you opt for the Winsor & Newton followed by some other conditioner, rinse well between the cleaner and the conditioner. Alternatively, you can use a good hair conditioner like for human hair, but use sparingly. It’s not a good idea to use the Winsor & Newton for intermediate cleaning during a single working day, as the kind of solvents in this cleaner need to dry COMPLETELY before you put the brush into acrylic paint again. The same would be true of any oily solvent cleaner.
In theory, you could use any fatted or glycerine bar soap to clean your brushes, but it won’t necessarily be as good at removing paint as the cleaners designed for brushes.
Let me know if you need more info on heavy cleaning or deep conditioning.
Judi Northwood
(Judith is an art instructor and can be reached at art at equusalba dot com with questions or inquiries. She teaches at Gen Con, Origins and Historicon and some local events. Look for her classes on the programs and sign up!)
Sep 30th
Part 1:
I am working on a miniature from the Mercenary faction of Reaper’s
Warlord game for a miniature swap. The deadline is early June so I have
plenty of time to work on it, although I’d like to have it done before
ReaperCon. I will post some in-progress shots here and discuss how well
(or not) the work is going.
I generally start on the face of a figure as it is the most critical
aspect of a miniature. I decided this time to try the book first and a
small spot of the robe to see if I would like the color combination I
had chosen.
The book is a tough piece to carry off well. There are numerous
small details that make the book interesting but none are easy to
paint. I decided to use the light source as being above the top of the
wizard’s head so shadows would fall directly beneath the wizard. This
meant that the book pages would be lighter near the top and center and
darken towards the bottom and outside. The underneath would be in
shadow. The back of the robe would be have highlights near the bottom
of the robe due to the way the light was falling.
If you look at the first picture you can see some yellow under the
back of the book closest to the wizard. There are indentations there
designed to look like fire. Above this are two skulls, one on each
cover of the book. I filled the flame indentations with thinned yellow
ink and will go back and add a bit of red ink as an additional
highlight. Then I plan on painting the sections between the flames as
best I can.
You can see (barely) how I shaded the pages with white and bleached
bone. The outer edge is gold and I will outline the inner square with
brown liner. I have tried to use a dark background on the page edges
and then paint in the pages with gold to indicate gold edging. I used a
liner brush to do this and I think the paint was too thick the first
couple of strokes. The third picture shows the overall effect close up.
I like the way the side parts of the pages turned out and am satisfied
with the way the tops turned out.
Part 2:
I have done more work on the book – some tightening of the details, and
painting more of the book. The picture to the left shows how I am
handling the page border. I used brown liner to separate the gold from
the parchment pages. What did *not* turn out well and shows graphically
here are the pages. I used too thin a paint on them. The shading looks
good when not viewed under a camera, but the paint “glopped” and is not
smooth. I think it will not be noticeable once completed. I have yet to
decide how or what I am going to put on for the text. The sides of the
book are better now as I took the liner and redid the lines between the
pages.
I
also spent some time working on the back side of the book. I outlined
the edges with new gold and then ran a dark line on the inside of the
gold. The book was shaded from earth brown at the top to dark shadow at
the bottom of the book cover. The skull was outlined with brown liner,
painted with earth brown and then highlighted up to a light color of
bleached bone. The left picture shows the transition from earth brown
to dark shadow on the left cover. The right picture shows details of
the fire and my approach to it. It also shows the outlining around the
gold.
And as an aside, it is painful to look at these pictures after
seeing the miniature. It looks good using the naked eye, but the macro
lens brings out all of the flaws in the paint job!
Part 3:
|
|
I’m not sure what you call the piece that is a combination shoulder pad and strips of cloth down the front, so I am using the term Tabard. I wanted some lighter colors on the miniature other than his hair and the skulls, so I used the Reaper Master Series (MSP) Surf Aqua. The border is lighter near the top and where the Tabard comes away from the figure into the overhead light. The skulls were outlined with Brown Liner and then painted with Earth Brown. I used the Vallejo Game Color equivalent of bleached bone and the MSP Skull White to build up the highlights. I painted the gold piece on the shoulder pads and then gave it a black wash so I could see the details. I plan on adding some highlights using New Gold along the top edge and moving slightly away from the edge towards the front and back of the figure. |
Part 4:
Huzzah!
The figure is finished! I took today while I was editing and saving
some videos to finish off what I had left. I think I psyched myself out
with how difficult it was going to be to do the face and horns, but
once I got started, all went smoothly. Quit a surprise, actually, as
anyone who has ever done this understands. No paint spills, no sticky
spots, no inks running, just easy painting. This picture is the best
one I have of the face. I took some time to try and highlight the face
with several different layers. The eyes were outlined in black, then
had the whites put in using … uh… grey, and then I dotted the eye with
black paint. I had to redo the left eye as it wasn’t looking the same
way as the right!
The photos above show a better
view of the serpent’s features.
The photos above were taken with different camera settings. I used a
higher resolution and did not modify the pictures other than to crop
them. If you have any comments on which set looks better, I’d like to
hear them….
Sep 30th
This next figure is a West Wind Dwarf I just finished up this AM. I
have not used any Dullcote on it to dull the protective sheen, but I
figured I’d do that when I had more to do at once.
This gentleman will be the champion for my unit of Longbeards which
the general will accompany, thus the gold and green to match the
general shown below. I like the West Wind dwarves, 10 metal figures in a box, *every* pose is different!
Sep 30th
This weekend I have been working on Dwarves. I have done my BSB, a
unit standard, and a test job of one of the warriors. The BSB is
straight from the Skull Pass set. I am using him as the BSB because he
is different and he is cheap!
| Hmmm, I seem to have only taken a single shot of this one, how awkward! I’ll just add two shots of the dwarf warrior from the Skull Pass set. |
The unit standard is from the Dwarf Battalion box set. I chose to
use a simple flag with the rune that stands for “W”. I’ll use the “I”
and “L” for the Ironbreakers and Longbeards. I’ve color coded the units
and the common color between them will be the GW foundation color.
Here’s a group shot.
Sep 30th
Last night I finished my cannon crew with the exception of two
figures – the gunner for this cannon and the Engineer for my Bolt
Thrower – I hope to finish them tonight. I have finished the CD In the Shadow of the Hegemon and have started In the Shadow of the Giant. Both have so far been interesting materials for keeping me painting.
I placed these on magnetic bases so they would travel easier. Since
I had some room on the cannon base, I added the optical surveying
device and the shells. Although the crewmen are probably pretty
interchangeable between the Cannon and Organ Gun, I figured they’d look
better crewing this piece.
Sep 30th